THE TALL SHIPS
By Ron Morris
In september we are probably going to do a live-aboard - and given that we may be embarking on a "wrecks & reefs" tour, I thought I'd take some time to research the various ships lost in the Red Sea. As I trawled the web, the first thing I discovered was that the list is huge - so there was no possibility of including them all - there won't be that many newsletters in my lifetime... What I have done however, is taken a special look at a few of those we might visit.
As you read, spare a thought for Mike Atkinson who will be spending some of his hard earned holiday time offering to teach wreck diving to anyone who'd care to sign up. I would doubt there's any better place to do a wreck speciality than the likes of Abu Nuhas.
As ever details are available at the dive centre - or you can email using the addresses page 7.
So, here we go - breathe deeply and try to imagine...
The SS Thistlegorm
Location; Northeast of Shag Rock, Sha’ab Ali
Minimum Depth to Wreck; 10m (at Bridge)
Maximum Depth to Seabed; 31m (Railway Engine)
Average Visibility; 25-30m
The Ship
The Steam Ship Thistlegorm was built by Joseph Thompson & Sons of Sunderland and launched in June 1940. She was 126.5m in length and displaced 4,898 gross tonnes. Powered by a triple-expansion, 3 cylinder steam engine that generated 365 horsepower, she was one of a number of "Thistle" ships owned and operated by the Albyn Line. With her construction being part funded by the British Government, however, she was destined for "War" duties from the moment she was launched.
The Loss of the Thistlegorm
Despite her designation as an "Armed Freighter" with an additional armoured Gun Deck built over the aft section, an overall shortage of weapons, meant that only an old 4·7" gun and a heavy calibre machine gun (both of WW1 vintage), were all that could be spared for the Thistlegorm. Her maiden voyage was to the USA to collect steel rails and aircraft, her second voyage was to South America for grain and her third was to the West Indies from where she returned with sugar and rum.
It was during the second trip that the Captain decided on some gunnery practise. However, the 4·7" gun was so badly worn that its automatic mechanism had been replaced with a manual breech. This meant that a second person had to push the barrel around by hand as it was being fired! After just one shot, the second round jammed in the breech and was liable to explosion at any time. As a solution a long rope was tied to the firing mechanism and led away to a shelter behind the aft mast house – from where some unfortunate soul was given the order to pull sharply! The resultant flash engulfed the entire stern of the ship - with the projectile managing a whole 50m before dropping into the sea. Thus ended all gunnery practises.
In May 1941, the Thistlegorm was in her home port of Glasgow loading supplies essential for the 8th Army and the relief of Tobruk. Though described on the manifest as "MT" (Motor Transport), this (probably deliberate) non-description hid a wide array of Land Mines, Shells, Ammunition, Weapons, Bedford Trucks, Armoured Cars, Bren-Carriers, BSA Motorcycles, Trailers, Vehicle spares, Aircraft and Aircraft parts, Radios, Rubber thigh-boots - and a great deal more besides. To save cargo space, the Motorcycles were placed onto the back of the Bedford trucks - three at a time before loading. Finally, being a commercial company, the Albyn Line also took the opportunity to deliver two sets of rolling stock to Egyptian Railways - each comprising an 0-6-0 Railway Engine, one Tender and one Water Carrier - all six items being carried as deck cargo. Because of her classification as an "Armed Freighter" the Skipper - Captain William Ellis, had an additional team of nine Royal Navy personnel on board to man these guns. Thus it was that on 2nd June 1941 Captain Ellis ordered the mooring lines slipped before easing his ship out of Glasgow. Sailing independently down the west coast of the British Mainland, the Thistlegorm made good time to her secret rendezvous off the south coast of England. Here she joined a large convoy and, being armed (?), was assigned a prominent position by the Convoy Commodore.
With Axis Forces occupying almost the entire northern Mediterranean coastline, the safest route to Alexandria was via South Africa - a lengthy detour. After refuelling in Capetown, they were joined by HMS Carlisle - a Light Cruiser of 4,190 tons. The Convoy then proceeded up the east coast of Africa before finally entering the Red Sea.
By the time they arrived at the entrance to the Gulf of Suez it was the third week in September and the Thistlegorm was immediately assigned "Safe Anchorage F" to await further instructions. The Master let out the starboard anchor and some 250m of chain and was satisfied that all was well. This was "good holding ground" and, at long last, the main engines were closed down. All they could do now was wait for clearance to proceed through to Alexandria. At this time, however, two vessels had collided further up the Gulf of Suez and were virtually blocking the entire entrance to the Canal. This led to the "Thistlegorm" - with her valuable cargo, remaining at anchor for a full two weeks.
Up until now these "Safe Anchorages" - each with its own letter of the alphabet, were regarded as exactly that, Safe! There were no enemy ships and enemy aircraft rarely ventured this far south. This was, however, all about to change when German Intelligence received information that a large troopship (possibly the Queen Mary) was due to travel through the Suez Canal with 1200 British Troops destined for North Africa.
Having mastered the relatively new skill of night flying, Heinkel He 111's from II/Kg26 (No 2 Group 26th Kampf Squadron) based in Crete were alerted - their task to seek and destroy. At 2250 hours on 5th October 1941 two twin-engine Heinkels crossed the north Egyptian coast heading south-east in search of this prize.
Aided by a clear moonlit night, they searched in vain for the big ship until fuel levels became critical. Then, just as they were on the point of returning home empty handed, one of the pilots spotted a ship at anchor. Turning, he came in low over the sea and, as he approached the bows of the Thistlegorm, released two bombs right over her bridge. Both bombs penetrated No 5 hold - aft of the bridge, detonating a great deal of ammunition. The resultant explosion sent the two locomotives spiralling into the air as the ship was ripped open like a huge tin can. Even to this day, the rear decks are peeled back towards the Bridge leaving many a Diver wondering what exactly he is looking at. The vessel began to sink and the crew quickly abandoned ship - with hardly any time to launch the lifeboats, most of them leapt straight into the sea. One injured man, however, was trapped on the blazing deck and desperately needed help. Crewman Angus McLeay wrapped some rags around his bare feet and ran across the hot steel plates to rescue him - an action for which he was later awarded the George Medal and Lloyd’s War Medal for Bravery at Sea.
Caught unawares, the Thistlegorm had been given no time to defend herself and she quickly sank. It was timed at 0130 hrs 6th October 1941. Captain Ellis and the other survivors were rescued by HMS Carlisle and then taken to Suez where he reported four members of his crew of 39 and five of the 9 Royal Navy ratings had all lost their lives. Captain Ellis was subsequently awarded the OBE - for "War Services" by King George VI.
The Ship Today
For many years, British vessels passing the site where the Thistlegorm was lost would dip their flags as a mark of respect for those who died. The ship itself, however, remained undisturbed until the early fifties when Jacques Cousteau discovered her. He raised several items from the wreck - including one of the motorcycles, the Captain’s safe and the ship’s bell. Indeed the February 1956 edition of "National Geographic" clearly shows the ship’s bell in place and his Divers in the ship’s "Lantern Room" - all of which were also still in place at that time. Cousteau, however, did not reveal the ship’s position and, once again, the Thistlegorm passed into obscurity. All that changed in the early nineties when a group of divers happened upon her by chance. In so doing, they had re-discovered one of the greatest diveable shipwrecks of all time.
The SS Thistlegorm sits mast and funnel above all others shipwrecks. Such is the pulling power of this single vessel that she attracts more Divers than any other underwater site - anywhere in the entire world! Since being re-discovered in the early nineties, the Thistlegorm has consistently remained the world’s foremost diving attraction. What makes this ship so extra-special is a combination of several factors. Despite extensive damage aft of the Bridge, the main section is upright and on an even keel. Then, there is the story of her passing, with all it’s ingredients of war, heroism and tragedy - something that is never re-created in any vessel deliberately sunk. Remember that even the Titanic would have passed into obscurity were it not for the manner of her sinking! Then, prevailing conditions and accessibility all come into play. These include an acceptable climate, relatively warm waters, very good underwater visibility and a maximum depth of just 32 metres to the seabed. What more could be asked of any shipwreck you might ask - and the word "Cargo" springs to mind. Within the Thistlegorm, that cargo is a veritable underwater World War II museum.
Diving the Thistlegorm
Since the later part of 2007, the Thistlegorm has been equipped with a ring of permanent moorings surrounding her hull. These allow both day boats and larger vessels to “anchor” on the seabed – rather than the previous damaging practice of tying up to the hull. Once secured, it is common practice for the divers to descend this line to a convenient depth – and then fin across the short distance to the wreck.
Despite the manner of her sinking, the Thistlegorm is still in remarkable condition. Finning from bow to stern you will find the front section largely intact and upright. The starboard anchor is deployed, some railings are still in place and all the winch houses, winches, blocks, windlasses and other paraphernalia are there to be found.
The entrance to No 1 hold is readily identifiable by the two railway water carriers on either side of the deck – with the one on the port side resting precariously on the edge…making this the less-visited of the two openings. Inside, there are Bedford trucks and a number of Motorcycles on the starboard side. Elsewhere the once organised cargo of parts has been turned over for trophies so many times that it looks more like a pile of rubble. However, it’s worth a second look because it obscures some less-visited motor vehicles.
Back at deck level, there is a Tender Railway on each side of No 2 Hold beside which are two "torpedo" shaped Paravanes (once used for cutting the cables of submerged mines). Dropping into the hold, there are some very interesting vehicles on the upper level, but below these on the port side, you will discover two large Armoured Cars – custom built on Rolls Royce Chassis. The starboard side of No 2 Hold, however, is where an incredible journey begins.
Swimming gently in the free space near the ceiling, there is plenty of room to explore the rows of trucks, still parked as though they were waiting to be unloaded. Behind each cab, there are Enfield motorcycles, stowed in groups of three on the back of each truck to save space. Shining a good torch here will reveal some wonderful detail of these beautiful old machines. However, it will also highlight the greed of others, for invariably the motorcycles have been pushed over by Divers searching for something to remove and keep. The badges, pedals, twist-grips and tool kits are all gone – and within the lorries and trucks, only a few steering wheels are left. Worse still, in order to get at those steering wheels or perhaps a souvenir from the engine, divers have smashed their way in through the roof or bonnet of each vehicle - thus maximising the damage caused in search of their trophy. For me, this makes it a dive of mixed emotions.
Moving sternward, through the inside of the ship it is possible to pass through into No 3 hold. Here are the small arms - weapons of various calibres in packs of 6 or 8 placed "Butt to Muzzle" and each pack now concreted together as a single entity. Beyond this, is the fuel store - virtually empty after such a long journey. To one side, however, there is a large gap where the Diver is able to exit through the bulkhead which once formed the barrier between No 3 and No 4 Hold.
Emerging into the daylight, the Diver is confronted by the devastation that surrounded the sinking. Ammunition boxes form a large pile of fairly uniform debris - on top of which is an up-turned tracked Bren Carrier. Pointing towards the stern is the broken drive shaft and some 20m further on is the remainder - sticking out of what remains of the stern. Below are a number of large artillery shells, once destined for a British Warship.
The stern itself is canted over at an angle of 45 degrees and is as interesting as any other part of the ship. The two deck-mounted guns are still in place and are best viewed from below - where they make excellent silhouettes against the distant surface. Finning around the aft rails you can venture down to the prop which makes a spectacular photograph with a diver alongside. Looking upwards and forward the damaged decking is all too evident - "peeled" back by the blast and reaching almost to the Bridge. The evenly spaced steel girders which once supported the deck are now on top and who knows what lies trapped below.
Look out to sea at this point and you might see the remains of one of the two Railway Engines – once carried on deck and thrown thirty metres from the hull by the blast. Remarkably, each of these sits upright on the seabed. If gas permits, they are worth a visit – although the prevailing current (which generally flows from bow to stern) makes the opposite, starboard, one more achievable.
Last, but not least, there is the Bridge, which although stripped bare long ago, still offers a commanding view of the wreckage.
Postscript
From a Divers viewpoint, what makes a good shipwreck is largely dependent on the individual. Few, however, would disagree that the Thistlegorm is amongst the very best. In truth she needs a dozen or so carefully planned dives to explore her many different aspects – but even after just one it is easy to see why she was catapulted from obscurity to become the world’s foremost diving attraction virtually overnight. However, she has become a victim of her own status and is in serious decline. Sadly, none of us shall ever see this shipwreck as magnificent as she was on the day she was re-discovered – and how much longer she will last is anybody’s guess…
The Carnatic
Location; Northwest corner of Sha’ab Abu Nuhas Reef
Minimum Depth to Wreck; 17m (Starboard side)
Maximum Depth to Seabed; 27m (along Mast)
Average Visibility; 30-35m
Sha’ab Abu Nuhas is a prime example of a Coral Reef that barely reaches the surface and, from a distance is not easily seen at all. The Reef is located right on the edge of the busy shipping lane called the Straits of Gobal. This is the extreme northwest corner of the Red Sea - where it begins to narrow before becoming the Gulf of Suez. Even today, these are hazardous waters - so it is easy to imagine what they must have been like over 100 years ago.
The Carnatic
The Peninsula & Oriental Passenger Steamer "Carnatic" was built by Samuda Bros of London and classified as an "iron framed planked passenger steamer of 1776 tons." Her dimensions were 89.8m x 11.6m with a draught of 7.8m. In addition to square-rigged sails, she was powered by a single 4 cylinder engine which produced 2,442 hp. Launched in December 1862 and registered in March 1863; she sailed for Calcutta on June 27th whereupon she was employed between Suez, Bombay and China. In 1867 she became the proud command of Captain P. B. Jones - one of the ablest officers of the company.
By September 1869, the Suez Canal was nearing completion and would be opened within three months. For the moment, however, passengers and cargoes were unloaded at Alexandria - from where they would travel 200 miles overland to Suez, before joining another vessel and resuming their voyage. In this way, the longer and more perilous route around the Cape of Good Hope was avoided.
It was during the second week of September that Captain Jones supervised the loading of his ship. Some of his cargo was very valuable and he personally made sure every item was checked and secured. He had 34 passengers, 176 crew and a cargo of cotton bales, copper sheeting, Royal Mail, and £40,000 in currency - destined for the Indian Mint. At 10am on the morning of Sunday 12th September 1869, Captain Jones ordered the mooring lines slipped and the Carnatic sailed for Bombay. She was a sleek vessel with proud lines and, unlike many of the hybrid "sail and steam" ships of the period, this vessel responded well to either form of power - thus giving her a definite advantage when other ships were becalmed. Captain Jones personally negotiated the long narrow confines of the hazardous Gulf of Suez and remained on the bridge to give his personal attention to every detail of navigating his vessel safely.
Not trusting his more junior officers, Captain Jones remained on the bridge, supplementing this continual lack of sleep with copious amounts of coffee - just to stay awake. Maintaining a steady speed of 11 knots, the Ashrafi lighthouse was sighted at 11:40pm and by the time the Second Officer came on duty just after midnight, it was already 5 or 6 miles astern - though no bearing was ever taken. The night was clear, with a slight following breeze and a little land haze - common in these parts. More importantly, the headlands and islands through which the Carnatic plotted her course, were all visible. At 1am Shadwan Island was sighted by the Second Officer - dead ahead. The Master altered course to S. 46° true and gradually to S. 51° true. Eighteen minutes later, however, breakers were seen on the starboard bow. The helm was instantly put hard-a-starboard and the engines at full speed astern. It was too late however and the Carnatic struck Sha’ab Abu Nuhas Reef where she became firmly fixed.
Not a man to overreact, Jones was most thorough in checking every single aspect of the ship’s condition and was quite satisfied that the pumps could handle the amount of water being taken on. Judging the passengers and crew to be as safe as could be expected, he decided everyone would remain on board. At daybreak on the 13th, Jones assessed the situation once again. The ship was stuck fast on a large Coral Reef and, although she was leaking, she was still in pretty good shape and the pumps were coping. Jones then ordered a large amount of the cotton dumped overboard in order to lighten the vessel in the forlorn hope that she would float off with the tide. There was no panic amongst the passengers although some did ask the Captain for permission to make for Shadwan Island. Jones was well aware of the dangers involved in moving 210 people to a remote island on the far side of a dangerous coral reef in small boats and of the discomfort they would suffer until rescued. For the moment at least, his vessel was relatively sound, they had power and considerable comfort. He also knew that the P & O Liner - Sumatra, was due to pass by at any time, inbound for Suez and he fully expected to be rescued later that day.
Meals were served, people walked the decks and, up aloft, a constant lookout was kept for a passing ship. But none came and, as evening fell, a second deputation of passengers approached the Captain with a plea to be allowed to reach Shadwan Island by lifeboat. Again he refused. Totally underestimating the power of a Coral Reef to inflict damage on a steel-hulled vessel, Jones decided all would spend another night on board. Accepting his authority, some of the passengers even dressed for dinner and the waiters served drinks before they all enjoyed a sumptuous evening meal. For some, it would be their last.
As the Carnatic continued to pivot on top of the Coral head that held her so firmly in place, the leaks got worse. What went undetected, however, was the slow, irreversible process that was weakening the keel itself as it steadily rocked to and fro in the gentle sea. By now it was only a matter of time.
At 2am on the morning of the 14th, the level of water within the ship finally engulfed the boilers and suddenly they were without power and light. Now even more passengers wanted to leave - but still Jones placed his faith in the timely arrival of the Sumatra. By daybreak, however, the sea state had begun to increase and water was rapidly filling the ship. Finally realizing the situation was lost, Jones ordered the lifeboats be made ready. However, it was not until 11am that he allowed the first passengers to begin to disembark. Tragically, at that very moment it became too late for some. In the time-honoured tradition of women and children first, the three ladies and one child on board had just taken their seats in one of the lifeboats when the Carnatic suddenly and without warning broke in half. Thirty four hours on top of a Coral outcrop had proved too much for the gallant little ship and, with her back broken, the aft section sank quickly - taking 5 passengers and 26 crew with it. Instantly, much lighter, the fore section fell over onto its port side as it also began to slip off the Reef - spilling almost everyone into the sea as it did so. With passengers and crew fighting for their very lives amongst masts, spars, rigging and all manner of debris, they were then suddenly engulfed by the returning wave caused by the sinking stern. As freed lifeboats floated off, there were many instances of bravery and brute strength as people forgot their respective positions and worked together for the common purpose of saving themselves and each other.
One by one the survivors were first hauled to safety and then taken to a rallying point where other lifeboats congregated together in the shallow water above the Reef. Then it was a matter of collecting anything that might be needed and, with a final scan for survivors, it was time to leave. Shadwan Island, however, was three miles from the far side of the very wide Sha'ab Abu Nuhas Reef. To shorten this journey, each of the seven lifeboats was pulled across the top of the Reef by the men taking it in turns - until, finally, this small, pitiful flotilla was able to row the remaining distance. It was after sunset when they arrived and, once again, they had to negotiate yet more coral reefs before they were safely on dry land.
Fortunately, several jettisoned bales of cotton had washed onto the island and being so tightly packed, were still very dry inside. They were actually calico - a form of course muslin material, and provided rudimentary clothing and warmth for the cold night ahead. In fact there was so much dry cotton that a large amount was carried to a high point and set alight. At last the Sumatra was sighted and she quickly responded to the only signal rocket fired. On his return to Suez, Captain Jones was recalled to England to face an official Board of Enquiry.
Recovering the Cargo & Currency
With a cargo of such great value (the equivalent of several million pounds by today’s standards), Lloyd’s immediately dispatched Captain Henry Grant to take charge of a recovery operation. On arrival in Suez, Grant was informed that the Carnatic had sunk in 40 fathoms (over 70metres!) and almost turned back. Then having second thoughts, he decided the least he could do was take a look. He arrived on the scene on 29th September and immediately chased away some Arab boats. Grant was heartened to find the Carnatic in quite shallow water at the bottom of a Reef with some of her features still visible above the surface. Working from the Salvage vessel "Tor," Grant had only one diver at his disposal - one Stephen Saffrey from Whitstable, but adverse weather conditions delayed the first descent until 15th October.
The search began in the Mail Room where a body was first recovered. Mail bags were sent to the surface and pocket watches removed from the safe, but no currency. Next to the "Mail" Room, was also a "Post Office" but access involved removing the large bulkhead which separated the two. This took Saffrey several days but finally, he was through and, on the 24th recovered another 16 mail bags. The first box of bullion was brought to the surface on the 26th and the remainder lifted by November 8th. In the meantime, local Bedouin free Divers had recovered over 700 sheets of fine-grade copper also destined for India’s Mint.
Official reports record the entire cargo of currency being recovered and, having been found in a very secure and undisturbed part of the ship, this seems likely to be true. That said, stories of "missing treasure" still appear from time to time.
Diving the Carnatic
The most incredible part of this entire shipwreck is that, whilst the ship went to the bottom in two separate halves, those two halves then fell together on the seabed - just as they might have done had the ship gone down as one piece…
Today the Carnatic is found at the base of the Reef and lies parallel to it. She is on her port side with the bows facing east. There are three distinct elements to this dive; the fore and aft sections are still largely intact and are joined together by the most damaged area where the ship was broken and the engine room was located. It is 25-27m to the seabed and 18-20m to the upper (starboard) side throughout the dive. The wooden superstructure and planking has long-since rotted away - leaving a steel hull held together by iron supports and cross-members. With the decking gone, Divers are able to explore down to two deck levels within the wreck itself.
At the Bows is the large copper ring that once held the bowsprit. This lies just behind the curved metal bowsprit support - underneath which was once the figurehead. When viewed from ahead, it is easy even today to see the Carnatic’s fine, sleek lines. From the bows the ship gently widens to the main body where, on both sides, lifeboat davits are found and all swung out. From here the Diver can enter the vessel and swim between the iron supports - a fascinating encounter with a vessel built in 1862!
Emerging from the forward section, the Diver then encounters the most severely damaged part of the wreck. Although it is really a pile of scrap metal, it does provide those with technical knowledge (or imagination…) plenty of scope for investigation - after all, there is a very large 4 cylinder engine still in there - somewhere.
For most Divers, the stern is the most exciting and interesting part of the entire wreck. Similar to the bows, lifeboat davits are found on both sides and the Diver is able to swim into the wreck down to two levels. Deep inside there are still some very old barrels and some have speculated quite what it was that they once contained which proved to be such a fine wood preservative - Brandy perhaps?
To discover the finest aspect of the entire vessel, however, the Diver must exit the wreck and swim round to the stern. This is a finely moulded structure with a single row of seven square windows facing aft. It really is reminiscent of something from Nelson’s day - and provides a fascinating insight into how traditional styles of building wooden ships were adapted for steel construction. Below the windows, the stern curves gently downwards and inwards to reveal a magnificent rudder and the one feature that certainly was never a part of that earlier era - a large three-bladed propeller.
After such a long time underwater, it is fairly safe to assume the Carnatic will remain pretty much as she is for the foreseeable future. She is well colonised by coral, soft corals and her own indigenous population of Reef Fishes which include Grouper and Lionfish. Altogether, this is probably one of the finest examples of a ship of her time to be found underwater anywhere in the world - and for that alone she is well worth the visit. Spare a thought though - for those who lost their lives.
Postscript
The resultant Board of Trade enquiry described the Carnatic as a "fully equipped and well found ship" and Captain Jones as "a skilful and experienced officer." With respect to the stranding of the ship, however, they stated "it appears there was every condition as regards ship, weather and light to ensure a safe voyage and there was needed only proper care. This was not done, and hence the disaster."
Captain Jones chose to blame unusually strong currents for driving him off course. However the Court felt that he should have taken a bearing from Ashrafi Lighthouse to be sure of his position and decided that the loss of the vessel was "due to a grave default of the Master." They suspended his license for 9 months.
But, on the matter of protection of the passengers and crew after the floundering of the ship, all members of the Court were satisfied "that when it was determined to leave the ship the Master and his officers in their exertions to secure the safety of the passengers, did all that experienced and brave men could do."
Captain Philip Burton Jones was born in Liverpool in 1830. He gained his Master’s Certificate in London in 1858 – aged just 28. In previous commands he earned a reputation as a first class Master Mariner. After the loss of the Carnatic however, he never went to sea again…
The Giannis D
Location; Northwest corner of Sha’ab Abu Nuhas Reef
Minimum Depth to Wreck; 6m (above Bridge)
Maximum Depth to Seabed; 27m (at Stern)
Average Visibility; 30-35m
The Ship
Launched in 1969 as the Shoyo Maru and built by the Kuryshima Dock Company of Imabari, Japan. A "General Cargo Vessel" of 2,932 gross tonnes, she possessed two cargo holds forward with Bridge and Engine Room at the Stern. Her dimensions were 99.5m x 16m with a draught 6.53m. Her machinery was built by Akasaka Tekkosho KK of Yaizu, Japan and comprised a 6 cylinder diesel engine capable of producing 3,000 BHP and a top speed of 12 knots.
She sailed under her original name until 1975 at which time she was sold and re-named the Markos. Interestingly, that name is still discernible on the vessel’s hull and there are those who insist on calling her by the misnomer "Markos D". In 1980, the ship was then sold again to the Dumarc Shipping and Trading Corporation of Piraeus, Greece. This was when she was given the name Giannis D and a large capital "D" was emblazoned onto her funnel.
In April 1983, the Giannis D was loaded with sawn softwood at the Croatian port of Rijeka. Part of this cargo was destined for the Saudi Arabian Port of Jeddah, with the remainder to be off-loaded at Hodeidah on the coast of Yemen.
It was a beautiful spring morning as the ship’s Captain ordered the mooring lines slipped and guided his charge out into the Adriatic. The journey down through the azure-blue waters of the Adriatic and then across the Mediterranean Sea were uneventful - with the ship in the hands of the Officer of the Watch. They made good time to Port Said where the Captain took charge of his vessel once again. Once through the Suez Canal, the Giannis D was faced with navigating the Gulf of Suez - a long narrow stretch of water festooned with small islands and Coral Reefs. Whatever their size, at least the islands were visible but Coral Reefs are very different and lurk menacingly just below the surface like an unseen enemy waiting to rip the hull from any careless vessel - as many a Captain has discovered to his cost.
The Master of the Giannis D knew these waters well and was not too proud to trust his more junior officers with the important task of navigation. Setting his usual course, he checked every element of the ship’s position and made sure his orders were fully understood before leaving the bridge. Eventually, they were approaching the Straits of Gobal and, as the Sinai coast began to fall away to the east and the Egyptian mainland even further away to the west, the Captain was satisfied that the more dangerous stretches of water had been safely negotiated once again and finally he could relax.
With Jeddah another 600 miles further south and, thinking that only the open Red Sea was between him and his destination, the Captain relaxed in his cabin and was soon fast asleep. He had, however, not reckoned with Abu Nuhas and it was not long before he was very rudely awoken by an event that would signal the end of his much loved ship. With the engines set at "Full Speed Ahead" the Giannis D was seen to suddenly wander from her allotted course and drive hard onto the North West corner of Abu Nuhas Reef. The date was April 19th 1983.
Lloyd’s List of April 22nd 1983, reported:
"GIANNIS D (Greek). London Apr 21 - Information received, dated Apr 20, states: MV Giannis D, (from Rijeka), cargo sawn softwood for discharge at Jeddah and Hodeidah, grounded at Sha'ab Abu Nuhas last night. Crew abandoned vessel, which is listing, and were taken by an Egyptian tug to Santa Fe platform and then by helicopter to Ras Shoke. Owners signed Lloyd’s standard form with salvage tug Salvanguard, which is proceeding to the vessel."
By the time this was being read in London, however, the Giannis D had been declared a total loss.
Diving the Giannis D
The "Giannis D" is now found in three separate sections - Bows, Amidships and Stern lying more or less parallel to the Reef. Whilst each of these will provide the Diver with a most rewarding dive, most Divers tend to head straight for the stern where they will find a very dramatic and exciting structure.
Such is the power of nature to reduce a man-made object to scrap metal that the stern looks as though it has been cleanly cut from the remainder of the ship. Almost like an island in the sand, this part of the wreck sits proudly all by itself, listing to port at an angle of about 45 degrees. The deepest part is the port companionway which is almost resting on the seabed. Above this, a number of davits and other fittings are found hanging out from the wreck. There are Crown of Thorns Starfish here - so watch where you put your hands. At 23-24m this is the deepest part of the wreck and immediately above, parts of the superstructure reach to within 4 metres of the surface. On the starboard side, the Diver will find a ladder still hanging down the side of the vessel. This was used by the crew as they abandoned ship. Immediately below is the propeller which is partially buried in the sand. Above and just in front of the huge rounded stern is the starboard-side companionway and stretching above this the Diver will find raised decks and the Funnel (with the "D" clearly visible). There is easy access to the engine room, which was never salvaged, and offers a very exciting interlude for those who prefer to venture deep inside.
The leading edge of this section is, of course, dominated by the Bridge. This is a large, and relatively shallow, open "room" with plenty of light and a number of entry and exit points providing excellent conditions for those wishing to enter a wreck for the very first time. Immediately in front of the bridge are a number of cargo winches below a very large A-Frame.
Travelling eastwards - parallel to the Reef which is over to the right, the Diver will now pass over the remains of No 2 Hold before arriving at the section that once separated the two cargo holds. Part of a companionway is uppermost with mast and booms having fallen across the seabed. Continuing in the same direction, the Diver now passes over the remains of No 1 Hold and a few well-rotted remnants of the cargo of softwood before arriving at the Bows. These are a completely separate dive and one that is often overlooked.
The Bows rest perfectly on their port side with the decks facing away from the Reef. Once again, they look as though they were separated from the remainder of the ship by an acetylene torch. Being exactly on their side, however, means that the forward main mast is found stretching out directly above and parallel to the sand - seemingly defying all the known laws of gravity. Many hard and soft corals have begun to colonise this part of the wreck and numerous Reef Fishes have crossed over from the adjacent Reef to set up home. A very large Napoleon Wrasse is often encountered here. On the foc’sle, the diver will find the windlass and a number of cargo winches - all occupying their rightful place. There is also a small entrance into the tight confines of the forward anchor locker - but with so much chain still inside, there is nothing to recommend the experience.
Overall the Giannis D is an excellent dive - and one that is much enjoyed by every grade of Diver. Why she should have suddenly veered from her course will probably never be known. Thankfully, there were no casualties and, in this case, Lloyd’s total loss is definitely Diving’s gain.
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